Sha
Tin, Hong Kong. Apparently my guide book was very very old, Sha
Tin estuary was not as described ''a jewel of nature with all
kinds of diverse plants and water birds in abundance." the
estuary had had been transformed into something equivalent to
our own South Bank in Brisbane, but on a much larger scale a consumer
Mecca for the New Territories. Even the much vaunted Sha Tin mountainsides
were stripped of diversity, raked clear of all sticks and leaves
(fear of wildfire) by women workers who covered their faces for
shame of doing such menial work.
I followed the old
man in the disney like gardens that now cover the estuary he
was carrying a songbird, in an inexpensive bamboo bird cage
of the type that can be purchased at Mong Kok markets. He stopped
at the outdoor tables of a tea house, a daily ritual, greeted
his friends. Then to my amazement he opened the cage door, the
bird looked up, appeared to be listening to his voice, hopped
out, took flight then alighted in the nearest tree amongst what
I saw to be a a large group of similar birds.
I sat down and drew for a while observing at various intervals
the old men and women escaping their blocks of 'coffin apartments'
playing card games, conversing arguing, laughing. Then as each
took their leave, the cages would be offered to the air and
the birds would return to go home with the owners.
On the
last evening in Hong Kong I was conversing with our hostess at
a reception party held for us at her home on the Peak. We had
just finished discussing her collection of Francis Bacon portraits,
that she said reminded her of me, a dubious honour I thought,
but meant as a compliment. I was recounting my experience in the
Sha Tin garden as we were watching the other guests. I was fascinated
to see that even at a formal function just as before during the
project we had all been working on, that they were not at all
self conscious in picking up their cell phones to cut a conversation
off mid sentence and answer or make a call.
"You think it
quite rude don't you?" She was amused at my obvious disaproving
reaction and explained to me that it was quite normal in Hong
Kong and very important to be seen to be getting and making
important social and business calls. "I think there is
a real business opportunity here." I mused, "To set
up business that provides regular calls to customers, people
could sign up to different plans,'' I offered with an ironic
edge. She was about to respond, when we were interrupted by
a somewhat urgent repeating, ring tone, that was coming from
a handbag on the seat next to us.
A middle aged
woman, white faced suddenly appeared from across the large reception
room and as if her life depended upon it, came running towards
us. She lurched across the table, upset drinks and grabbed the
phone from the bag. The conversation was terse, and was abruptly
ended by the other party, the woman then hurriedly stabbed at
the touch keys, got no answer, repeated the action, still no
answer, stuffed the phone in the bag and left the room in some
disarray. Seeing my curiosity, our hostess by way of explanation
said, shaking her head, "Oh its her husband, he told her
he was having to go away again, to the New Territories for a
time on business.
I began
our conversation again, but was cut short by our hostess, "I
must tell you about my next project" she said, " Have
you been down to Mong Kok yet?." ''I am concerned about the
number of Hong Kong wives being divorced and left to work on the
streets you understand, in menial jobs or selling themselves."
Husbands It seems are finding much more compliant wives in the
new China.
"If the first wife complains, she is out, my husband never
travels alone on business, I wont permit it," she added with
effect." Its after eleven I'll call my driver and take you
and your wife for a drive to Mong Kok Road to see."